Roast (SE1 1TL)
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Located in the portico salvaged from the original Royal Opera House, Roast looks straight down the Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels street and into Bridget Jones' bedroom window, delivering an impressive setting. Too bad the experience doesn't deliver.
So eager were we for the substantial-looking dinner menu, we decided to forgo starters to leave plenty of room for the mains. The entrée menu included an enticing pressed rabbit as well as a broad selection of fish and meat. Commendably, the menu also advises that much of the produce has been sourced from the market itself.
Sadly, our keenness waned when the food arrived. One of my companions and I both ordered the 10oz Welsh steak, and the delivery could not have been less consistent. Hers arrived significantly better done than requested. Whilst our waiter was happy to replace this, it turned out to be another over-cooked steak. Maybe my companion was unlucky (twice) as my identical order produced a perfectly cooked succulent steak.
Our other dining companion opted for Pan Roasted Ling, a similar fish to cod and served with clams and perry, which was described it as ‘fair and ‘adequate’.
The sides where a mixed bunch. The House Made Chips were presumably named as anyone could make them at home. They looked and tasted as if cooked from frozen. The Hispi Cabbage was served in butter which reduced its sweet taste to a creation similar to a school dinner. A success, though, were the English Heritage Carrots, colourfully proving that carrots aren't always orange!
Staffed by predominantly young, friendly servers, their inexperience was borne out through the dinner service. Despite bustling around constantly, our visit required repeated requests for water and wine refills. Although a minor blip, it’s these little things on which service is judged. Missing is a Maître d' on the floor, quietly but efficiently directing the waiting staff.
The clientele were predominately City types entertaining, with expense accounts to match. This in mind, there is also a distinct lack of a Sommelier. Roast appears to have a wide cellar, however the lack of professional recommendations makes selection more of a hit and miss affair. One area in which I need no advice is beer, and here Roast scores with a good selection of traditional bottled beers.
I was left thinking, "Oh dear, what a waste of a great site". Ultimately the food was overpriced for very average fare, and given the location and vast sources which surround it, there is no excuse for this.
As we left, this point was underlined by the delicious waft of grilled sausage, glazed in maple syrup with rosemary, from the Posh Sausage café opposite. This reminded me that far better quality and less expensive fare is available in this unique enclave of London.
Sadly, our keenness waned when the food arrived. One of my companions and I both ordered the 10oz Welsh steak, and the delivery could not have been less consistent. Hers arrived significantly better done than requested. Whilst our waiter was happy to replace this, it turned out to be another over-cooked steak. Maybe my companion was unlucky (twice) as my identical order produced a perfectly cooked succulent steak.
Our other dining companion opted for Pan Roasted Ling, a similar fish to cod and served with clams and perry, which was described it as ‘fair and ‘adequate’.
The sides where a mixed bunch. The House Made Chips were presumably named as anyone could make them at home. They looked and tasted as if cooked from frozen. The Hispi Cabbage was served in butter which reduced its sweet taste to a creation similar to a school dinner. A success, though, were the English Heritage Carrots, colourfully proving that carrots aren't always orange!
Staffed by predominantly young, friendly servers, their inexperience was borne out through the dinner service. Despite bustling around constantly, our visit required repeated requests for water and wine refills. Although a minor blip, it’s these little things on which service is judged. Missing is a Maître d' on the floor, quietly but efficiently directing the waiting staff.
The clientele were predominately City types entertaining, with expense accounts to match. This in mind, there is also a distinct lack of a Sommelier. Roast appears to have a wide cellar, however the lack of professional recommendations makes selection more of a hit and miss affair. One area in which I need no advice is beer, and here Roast scores with a good selection of traditional bottled beers.
I was left thinking, "Oh dear, what a waste of a great site". Ultimately the food was overpriced for very average fare, and given the location and vast sources which surround it, there is no excuse for this.
As we left, this point was underlined by the delicious waft of grilled sausage, glazed in maple syrup with rosemary, from the Posh Sausage café opposite. This reminded me that far better quality and less expensive fare is available in this unique enclave of London.



Martin Gallagher has never played for West Ham or England, nor had a number one hit single, but he has worked in the City for many years (for what that's worth). A life-long Londoner, he made the migration from east to west a few years back and is still trying to get used to the absence of fried chicken takeaways and the over abdundance of coffee shops. Martin is married, has two daughters, and is also interested in travelling, football and writing. He hopes to publish his first novel 'sometime in the future'.





