Morgan M (N7)
Morgan M
489 Liverpool Road
London N7 8NS
020 7609 3560
www.morganm.com
489 Liverpool Road
London N7 8NS
020 7609 3560
www.morganm.com
Ambience
Cuisine
Cuisine
Service
Value for Money
Value for Money
I first dined at Morgan M just after it opened in 2003 and remember saying to a friend that if there was any justice in the world, chef Morgan Meunier would receive a Michelin star or two for his truly inspirational food.
Located at the unfashionable end of Liverpool Road (Holloway to me, Islington to the north London glitterati) and utterly and uncompromisingly French from the owners' own paintings on the walls (not bad for a chef!) and the stacks of past Michelin guides on the bookshelves, to the carefully chosen (and often little known) wines, this small, intimate restaurant (just 48 covers) is a 'must visit' establishment for all lovers of classic French cuisine prepared and presented to the highest standards.
This is a restaurant where the food and the wine is taken seriously, where the waiters understand the food they are presenting (and will explain it all to you), and the sommelier will take great care to select wines that will compliment the food. But here's where I have my only teeny-weeny problem with Morgan M. While every part of front-of-house service is faultless it can be a little intimidating. It's a small restaurant, there's no background music (thank the Lord) and I'm sure most diners would prefer lighting that was a little less harsh. But that's it. Oh, apart from the Hildon water you'll be served unless you ask for Badoit!
The Finn and I dined midweek and chose the startlingly eclectic five-course tasting menu; absolutely the best bet for first time diners. Morgan M's menu changes throughout the year to take advantage of food in season and to reflect cultural choice. His food is light but like all classically trained chefs sauces are used extensively to bring out the taste of the dish. As the Finn put it "sublime, but zillions of calories" roughly translated to mean don't go if you are going to worry about your diet all night.
The Spring & Summer Menu starters include ravioli of snails in Chablis, poached garlic and red wine jus (outstanding), although we chose the watercress soup and frogs' legs. Other choices include smoked scallops, terrine of foie gras and artichoke, and lobster cannelloni. For mains the grilled loin of Monkfish and the grilled Anjou Squab pigeon stand out as truly exquisite although for a change we chose the sea bass and the beef. The Finn said the beef was the best she'd ever tasted (and she's not a natural carnivore!)
To finish off skip the cheeses and go for the light-as-a-feather Passion Fruit soufflé or the rhubarb tart, or any of the other to-die-for desserts. If you can't resist the cheeses go for both!
Expect to pay around £120 for dinner with wine and service although you can enjoy a two-course mid-week 'a la carte' lunch for an amazing £23.50. And if you have reasonably behaved children with taste buds that have progressed beyond fish fingers and 'chicken n chips' plump for the child friendly Sunday lunch.
All in all dining at Morgan M is a delight and, put simply, one of the best French restaurants in London. Monsieur M's Michelin star cannot be long in coming.
This is a restaurant where the food and the wine is taken seriously, where the waiters understand the food they are presenting (and will explain it all to you), and the sommelier will take great care to select wines that will compliment the food. But here's where I have my only teeny-weeny problem with Morgan M. While every part of front-of-house service is faultless it can be a little intimidating. It's a small restaurant, there's no background music (thank the Lord) and I'm sure most diners would prefer lighting that was a little less harsh. But that's it. Oh, apart from the Hildon water you'll be served unless you ask for Badoit!
The Finn and I dined midweek and chose the startlingly eclectic five-course tasting menu; absolutely the best bet for first time diners. Morgan M's menu changes throughout the year to take advantage of food in season and to reflect cultural choice. His food is light but like all classically trained chefs sauces are used extensively to bring out the taste of the dish. As the Finn put it "sublime, but zillions of calories" roughly translated to mean don't go if you are going to worry about your diet all night.
The Spring & Summer Menu starters include ravioli of snails in Chablis, poached garlic and red wine jus (outstanding), although we chose the watercress soup and frogs' legs. Other choices include smoked scallops, terrine of foie gras and artichoke, and lobster cannelloni. For mains the grilled loin of Monkfish and the grilled Anjou Squab pigeon stand out as truly exquisite although for a change we chose the sea bass and the beef. The Finn said the beef was the best she'd ever tasted (and she's not a natural carnivore!)
To finish off skip the cheeses and go for the light-as-a-feather Passion Fruit soufflé or the rhubarb tart, or any of the other to-die-for desserts. If you can't resist the cheeses go for both!
Expect to pay around £120 for dinner with wine and service although you can enjoy a two-course mid-week 'a la carte' lunch for an amazing £23.50. And if you have reasonably behaved children with taste buds that have progressed beyond fish fingers and 'chicken n chips' plump for the child friendly Sunday lunch.
All in all dining at Morgan M is a delight and, put simply, one of the best French restaurants in London. Monsieur M's Michelin star cannot be long in coming.
Here Is The Writer : Richard Tobias
Richard Tobias brings a much needed dose of good behavior to HITC Life. His extensive career in tourism brought him an OBE in 1998. Richard is an experienced writer, lecturer and broadcaster, and is a Fellow of the Institute of Directors, the Tourism Society and the Institute of Travel & Tourism as well as non-executive chairman of World Media Publishing. His Who's Who entry lists golf, good food and Chelsea Football Club amongst his passions. His favourite dining companion is The Finn, and sometimes her daughter, The Finnette.
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