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Anchor & Hope for a Table

Ambience

Cuisine

Service

Value for Money

last updated: 3 August 2008
The Anchor & Hope
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Tucked away on The Cut in SE1, ideal for the Old and Young Vics and the South Bank, this Gastropub has been serving traditional and seasonal British dishes since 2003, and has received a range of accolades and rave reviews along the way.
From the outset, let me point out that they do not take bookings, only the freshest ingredients, and are incredibly popular. Ergo, arrive at a busy time and you'll have a wait and run the risk of half the menu being sold out when you finally sit down. On my visit I arrived at 5.30pm, got on the list, enjoyed a leisurely pint at the bar, and was seated when the restaurant opened at 6pm. So if you want a less stressful experience with a full menu choice, plan your visit for the quieter times. Lesson over.

With a booking policy like that, it's not surprising that The Anchor & Hope has a no-nonsense approach to both raw ingredients and raw furniture, the latter a mixture of odds and ends which I believe it is fashionable to call ‘eclectic’. Alumni of St John and Shoreditch's Fox Dining Room work the kitchen with gastropub veteran Mike Belben, co-founder of The Eagle in Farringdon, providing backing. Influences from these veritable establishments can be found on the menu.

My companion and I started with an asparagus soup (£4.80) which had a pleasing smoky under-taste and a wonderfully course pig’s head and hock terrine (£5.80). Other tempting treats on offer included deep fried sand eel (£5.50) and a salt cod brandade (£5.40). All dishes are seasonal, so equally tempting alternatives may now be on offer.

They offer a selection of house whites and reds on offer by the glass, carafe and bottle (from £2/£6/£12) as well as an extensive selection of more expensive bottles and a wide range of beers and ciders.

The main presented a dilemma. My first choice was a rib of beef, however this is only available in two- or three-person portions (£44.80/£60). This left me to choose between a poached sea bass (£15.60) and my preference, a delicious potato and St. James pie. This pastry indulgence takes twenty minutes to prepare, but its alternate layers of potato and cheese are worth the wait. My companion, having spotted a fellow diners, went for another starter, a whole artichoke served with light vinaigrette, the ideal complement for its soft pulpy petals (£5.60).

Time was pressing so we forewent dessert, leaving us with a final bill for two including coffees, beer and wine of £55 and making plans to again return soon.

Here Is The Writer : Martin Gallagher

Martin Gallagher Martin Gallagher has never played for West Ham or England, nor had a number one hit single, but he has worked in the City for many years (for what that's worth). A life-long Londoner, he made the migration from east to west a few years back and is still trying to get used to the absence of fried chicken takeaways and the over abdundance of coffee shops. Martin is married, has two daughters, and is also interested in travelling, football and writing. He hopes to publish his first novel 'sometime in the future'.

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